Is it possible for the oil in the oil tank to drain into the crankcase over time (like 16 years)? If so, what's an easy way to drain the crankcase? Is it as simple as disconnecting the inlet hose to the oil pump?
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It is very possible for that to happen, easiest way to drain I am not sure though, probably would be to find the oil return line to the tank and disconnect it. -
Thanks. I'll check out the return line.Comment
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16 years?
How about a few weeks?
Always check the oil AFTER warming up the bike.
It drains down over time. There's a check valve that a tiny bit of grit will allow oil to go down into invisibility.
NEVER! Top off the oil tank when cold and untouched for days! You may get a volcanic overflow event. I
On the M2, ( and other tube frame Buells ) The seat actually holds the oil fill cap down. Otherwise it's just a rubber on plastic plug. If you look in with a light and there's ANY visible oil, go ahead and fire the bike up until it can idle with out choke. ( a few minutes, or less than a minute if the carb ( on pre-fuel injection models ) has been adjusted "properly" aka idle screw freed & set ) ONLY THEN check oil level and top off if needed. If there's no Harley puddle underneath , you should be good.
IF YOU TOP OFF THE OIL TANK ON A "Tuber" in Spring in the belief you are low, And the seat is off, the oil pressure can blow the cap/dipstick off and fountain oil up to the ceiling of your garage. Don't ask me how I know.
If the seat is bolted down properly, it can just splooge underneath, it's not a screw on seal, just friction.
In the Service Manual, the Lawyer Cult has placed black bordered warnings of potential danger for your safety and lawsuit avoidance.
The funny part is that removing & replacing the seat gets a hazard warning, since a loose seat may cause you to fall off the bike, possibly causing Serious Injury or Death.
And Almost Every thing you do to maintain the bike, except check the tires, involves taking the seat off. Accessing the oil tank, electrical, removing the gas tank, etc. ... You remove the seat first. And replace it after.
Thus most of the sections in the manual has the black bordered DEATH!!! warning about the seat, making it, logically and statistically, the Most Dangerous Thing In The World! ( read that last in a Jeremy Clarkson accent )
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On my 2001 M2L, every Spring I check the oil before starting. Just dumb not to, according to decades of automotive and other experience. In my case the oil is never up to the dipstick, and there's probably a little visible with a flash light kinda down around the curve of plastic. The tank wraps around frame etc.
Then I fire it up, and by the time I've got the idle/choke down to 900-1200 rpm. It's warm enough to ride from my shed across the lawn, slowly, to my porch, where I can gear up, etc. Only THEN do I shut down pull the seat again, and check oil level. Huh, there's more! After the First ride, typically to top off the gas tank with booze free Premium, I then trust the dip stick. Every subsequent ride, unless there's a tell tale mark underneath, I only check the oil After the ride. I've replaced just one head's rocker box gaskets so far for years, and mine doesn't lose oil beyond less than a teaspoon through the breather into my catch can. ( transparent, so I can see at a glance if there's a change )
If there's no oil in the tank, and a short engine run doesn't start to refill the oil tank, and/Or the valve train noise doesn't rapidly get quieter as the oil is pumped through the heads, then I'd get concerned and get serious about finding your oil. Otherwise, simply cranking the starter with the spark plugs disconnected, should start pumping oil up from the mysterious Below.
It should go without saying that you shouldn't high rev any engine until it's warmed up and certainty Not if it's making any unusual noises. The Sportster derived engines typically take a few seconds to get quiet & happy. Arguably most wear takes place on start up, in Any engine. So don't rev the engine excessively and demand wheelie power 3 seconds after it starts.
true anecdote here about seeing a Honda V-65 Magna owner break his brand new bike with 13 miles on it by reving the engine in the street in front of his friends, showing off, dumping his crankcase full of oil, metal bits, and half burying a rod in the asphalt.
A X1 crank is tougher, but it's also like 5 pounds lighter than a Sportster crank, to rev quicker.
You have to be foolish to break a motorcycle by showing off. It's fortunately rare. But you can do it.
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“Otherwise, simply cranking the starter with the spark plugs disconnected, should start pumping oil up from the mysterious Below.”
All good info Patrick.
only thing I can think to add would be to squirt a tiny bit of oil into the spark plug hole before cranking.Comment
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